Ashima Leena Pays Tribute to Craftsmen With Their Couture Collection 2020

2020 might have been a year of unostentatious, small scale gatherings and disruptions so far, but come fall and the Indian fashion industry with the support of FDCI is changing the narrative and how! After the grand celebration of couture and charisma that was held as India’s first digital fashion show - India Couture Week unravelled itself in September, it’s now time to revel in the joy of India’s first phygital event - Lotus Makeup India Fashion Show. 

Of the many designers that have come together to present couture films wrapped in virtual brilliance, Ashima Leena’s showcase of her Couture Collection 2020 ‘UmmeRabab’ proves that eloquence and grandeur will always be synonymous to bridal wear in India.  In a conversation with WeddingWire India, Designer Leena Singh reveals the inspiration of her latest collection and the experience of her rendezvous with a phygital fashion show. 

• What inspired your Ashima Leena 2020 Couture collection’s theme?

AL: Ashima Leena, being one of the most senior and recognised brands of the country, has created a unique style of their own, reflecting the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary vocabulary. Borrowing inspiration from the rich heritage, art and design of the Indian culture, a diverse approach manifests itself in its creations, which spans across the royal Indian costumes of the 18th century, through the modern, cutting-edge styles of today. They have been creating beautiful and delicate handcrafted masterpieces that are classic and enduring. "Ashima Leena" combines Indian craftsmanship with innovative western silhouettes to create an enigmatic and distinctive looks. The design philosophy of the brand strives to bring out the best in every woman through ensembles that are traditional yet contemporary. Prominence on textile, attention to detail, fabric development and complex grand embroideries are the trademarks of the ingenuity of the brand.

• What were the challenges that you had to face while creating this line during the pandemic?

AL: I believe what is posing itself as a challenge today will be a norm tomorrow. Curating a grand show like this online for the first time was very challenging, however with the supportive and hardworking teams of FDCI the entire experience has been creaseless. As technology had taken over, it was also inspiring to watch the show come to life with various elements like visuals, music, videography all coming in sync to create magic for us. With key elements in mind that tell the story of Ashima Leena like styling, stunning jewellery, choreography and makeup we have created our digital show that showcases ‘The art of textile crafting’ –with signature AL styles.

• How did you pivot to digital shows? Would you like to share some key highlights from the experience of planning a digital show?

AL: Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week has been a wonderful experience, it has also been a learning experience as well as a challenge for all of us. The restricted movement and social distancing has given the industry a new format, a digital space with grand virtual sets and immersive technologies that will surely build a bridge between the physical and digital spaces. At ‘Ashima Leena’ we have been working meticulously to create our collection and have re-engineered our workspace where social distancing and all health and safety guidelines are followed. LMIFW is different in many aspects, there are more details, and the digital presentation helps a brand tell a story and also becomes available and accessible to a wider audience, increasing the reach of brands and designers.

• How is your collection paying a tribute to craftsmen this season?

AL: Our couture collection 2020-  ‘Umme Rabab’ is a tribute to our weavers.The brand Ashima Leena has been working with weavers and diverse skilled craftsmen for the last three decades.The unseen hands of the weavers who have worked relentlessly for decades together have helped bring the brand where it is today and their support has truly been immeasurable.

The Art of Textile Crafting

The art of textile crafting… the signature style of Ashima Leena. A magical mix of different kinds of weaves put together to create.. Breathtaking patterns. 

- Reinterpreted, lengthened jackets that can be worn with any of the classic silhouettes, peplums, circular lehengas, appliqué delicate sarees with jewelled tassels with chanderi and brocade woven Odhni’ salong with antique gold fabrics which come alive with the millions of tiny hand embroidered beads and intricately appliquéd brocades that highlight the AL legacy of fine craftsmanship.

- Brilliant hues transform texture into a chromatic scale of magical colours

- The subtle and exotic hues exude old-world charm, which harmonise closely with the beauty of 'UmmeRabab'

- Mustard,  muted turmeric, soft dusky pink, ivory, pomegranate red, iron black, beaten gold, bold pinks, deep emerald, sand like beige come together to create the colour pallete of this diverse collection

- The fabric has a blend of many hues and colours, which renders an inimitable uniqueness to the outfits. The collection has interplays of dexterous Applique work with unique brocade fabrics, delicate French knots and detailed zardosi embroidery

- Minutely designed fabric panels, complex hand embroideries, botanical motif’s, intricate paisley patterns bordered with hand-embroidered beadwork, hand-made tassels, form this tribute and collection

• What is the new age bride looking for in her bridal wear for 2020-2021 weddings? 

AL:  No one would disagree when we say that brides are killing it in floral print bridal lehengas and when such embroidery is on a colour as serene as ivory beige, you become the ideal modern bride clad in the perfect minimalist bridal lehenga choli. This couture collection combines delicate hand embroidery in the form of meticulously curated textiles with classic AL Maharani silhouettes. Through our interpretation, we aspire to reflect a poetic flow in volume, layers, and impeccable garment construction, which characterise the unique beauty of ’UmmeRabab’.

• How do you see the couture industry in India changing through the pandemic?

AL: Today, as the world is learning to live in new ways there are many who are struggling and trying to cope with the changes this pandemic has brought to all our lives-one of the most affected section has been of the Karigars and weavers of our country. AL is now supporting them in every possible way and stands in solidarity and in gratitude towards them. There are millions of looms across India that are engaged in weaving cotton, silk and other natural fibers to bring out the traditional beauty of India's spectacular heritage. Many generations of weavers have been dependent on this art of weaving and for decades it has provided livelihood to their families. Weavers and specialised textile craftsmen of our country have helped in keeping alive Indian heritage with various techniques of weaving and textile crafting. As we face challenges, we are also given an opportunity to re-invent and  re-imagine new and improved ways of working and I feel whenever there will be a challenge or obstacle we will find ways again and again to face those challenges and to work around them. It is imperative to support one another in difficult times like these.

Watch the Full Show here - 

Planning a 2020-21 wedding? Book your bridal lehenga from the top couturiers/designers in your city.