Zardosi 101: Everything You Need to Know About Indian Gold Thread Work
From Mughal royalty to modern fashion runways, uncover the story behind Zardosi embroidery, its origins, techniques and latest styles.
Zardosi embroidery is one of the most popular bridal clothing embroideries. Zardosi work is a royal embroidery type in which various beautiful embellishments are sewn on cloth using a metallic gold thread. This embroidery type is undeniably the most preferred embroidery used by famous bridal designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Anita Dongre, etc. Hands down, Zardosi work embroidered bridal outfits are much in demand this wedding season. If you’re looking for the same but are a bit sceptical about the right choice, we assure you that after reading this post, all your doubts about Zardosi work will be gone!
Table of Content:
- What is Zardosi Work?
- Making of Zardosi - Step by Step Process
- Types of Zardosi Embroidery Designs
- Latest Zardosi Work Blouse Designs
- Latest Zardosi Work Saree Designs
- FAQs
What is Zardosi Work?
Zardosi work is a hand-embroidery art form derived from the country's Indo-Iranian heritage. Various metallic threads in tones of gold, silver, and copper are used to create intricate motifs and pattern embroidery work over fabrics. In earlier times, thread made out of real gold and silver was used to create heavy bridal sarees, lehengas, and suits. However, with time and cost-effective practices, artificial colour-dipped threads are now used to create beautiful fabric embroidery artwork. From booti work, floral designs to Mughal patterns and temple art, you can see various embroidery work in such design patterns made with zardosi work on Indian and Indo-Western outfits.
Making of Zardosi - Step by Step Process
From preparing the metallic thread for the embroidery to tracing the design on fabric and the embroidery process, zardosi work done in attires takes a lot of time, patience and hard work. Let's look at the entire process of creating stunning Indian bridal zardosi designs that take your breath away!
1. Making of the Thread
People often mistake Zari and Zardozi for the same thing. Zardozi is embroidery, and Zari is the metallic thread used to create beautiful Zardozi art on clothes. Masses of the desired metal, or ingots, are pressed through steel sheets to convert them into thin metallic wires. These wires are then twisted and wrapped around silk threads to give them volume and a spring-like texture that you can see up-close zardosi work.
2. Pre-Embroidery Setup
The final design pattern is traced on paper with ink and then transferred onto the fabric by poking a needle to create the outline and mix of kerosene and dye solution to transfer all the detailing of the pattern.
3. Fabric Setup
The fabric is stretched and tightly fitted on a wooden frame from all sides. The firm base is essential to embroider zardozi work right on the fabric.
4. Embroidery Technique
A special kind of needle with a hook-style end embosses and creates 3D-style zardozi work on the fabric.
5. Fabric
Silk, cotton, satin, and velvet fabrics are used to create delicate zardozi work designs. Designers also choose between these fabrics based on whether they are going for simple zardozi work designs or heavy couture designs.
Types of Zardosi Embroidery Designs
With endless possibilities and new-age technology, one can create almost all design patterns with various embroidery art forms. But if we talk about the traditional zardosi work embroidery designs that have been woven and passed on for generations, here are the most commonly used and loved designs:
1. Floral Designs: These are the most commonly used patterns for zardosi cut work on women's and men's wear. Whatever the season, floral design zardosi patterns are always a big hit.
2. Booti Motif Designs: Decorating the entire length of the fabric without weighing it down, the booti motif design. Rajasthani motif styles are a designer's preference.
3. Peacock Designs: The national bird of India is featured in handlooms due to its beauty and colourful appearance. Silhouettes and detailed peacock designs are integral to bridal attire and bridal mehndi styles.
4. Mughal Patterns: Zardozi work was readily used in Mughal attire, so the Mughal motifs and geometric patterns look stunning in zari embroidery work.
5. Parrot Designs: Not just peacock but even parrot silhouettes look beautiful when done in zardosi work.
6. Geometric Designs: This design is prominently seen in the borderline embroidery on dupattas, sarees, and suits' sleeves.
7. Paisley Designs: From small motif styles to oversized Paisley patterns taking centre stage, this Indian motif design is one of the oldest traditional zardosi work designs.
8. Creeper Plant Designs: Bel or creeper plant designs are best used to give dense-looking embroidery work to an Indian silhouette. These are also used as a border lace embroidery style.
Latest Zardosi Work Blouse Designs
Our Bollywood divas love adorning zardosi work blouse designs with sarees and lehengas. We recently spotted celebrities in beautiful zardosi blouse designs that we can’t stop dreaming about. Take a look! Alaya F glows in a neutral-toned zardosi work blouse design from Tarun Tahiliani. The muted floral embroidery matched with beads, lace and pearl work makes this blouse versatile, and it can be worn with different types of lehenga skirts and sarees. For a summer wedding, you can opt for a sleeveless zardozi work blouse as seen on Suhana Khan. The blouse design stands out with creeper zardozi work all over, which is not heavy to wear but looks regal paired with saree drapes and lehenga pleats. Shraddha's blouse design proves that even heavy zardozi work, when done in muted tones, can glitter and yet look simple. The sleeveless zardosi kotti is a perfect bridal addition that can be matched with all kinds of saree and lehenga styles. We also love Neha Sharma's full-sleeved blouse design look from Kalki Fashion. Velvet fabric brings out the best of zardozi work by brilliantly highlighting every detail of the design. Khushi Kapoor also shows us how to turn heads in a modern zardosi work blouse style. Zari work has been enhanced with beads and pearl work, with the design stretching to the lengths of net sleeves and a floor-length blouse cape.
Also Read: 20+ Latest Zardosi Work Blouse Designs
Latest Zardosi Work Saree Designs
Take inspo from these celebrities and influencers as they show you how to ace the art of draping a zardosi work saree. Brides-to-be, shortlist your favourites, as these saree styles will surely make you a showstopper at your wedding. A blend of aari embroidery with zardosi works best when looking for heavily embroidered saree designs that are not heavy. The zardosi blouse for saree style from JADE can be a great pick for your wedding reception party. Lately, designers have been experimenting by amalgamating prints with zardosi work. Look at this Ritu Kumar creation with a floral print saree and blouse combo that has been given a regal look with delicate gold zardosi and aari work. Rashmika looks stunning in this forest-green saree with zardozi and motia waraq patchwork embroidery. The sleeveless blouse with a sweetheart neckline has been decorated with heavier zardozi work, making it party-perfect for any wedding celebration. Brides-to-be, if you wish to add a zardosi work saree to your bridal wardrobe, nothing beats this red saree blouse combination. Zardosi, gota patti, and aari work in floral patterns embellished on the saree have been matched with a heavily embroidered maggam cut-style blouse design.
FAQs
Simar Dugal, the label, is one of the flag bearer designer brands of the country that represents and celebrates the traditional weaves and handloom art of India. We spoke to Arjan Dugal, the Creative Head and force behind the Simar Dugal label. He talks extensively about zardosi work, his perspective on the embroidery technique and his overview of adorning the design right. In a tête-à -tête with him, this is what he has to say about the zardosi work:
1. How much does a zardosi work cost?
A: "As a reference, it’s probably the most expensive type of embroidery, barring possibly hand marodi. It’s exquisite embroidery that adds dimensions to an outfit," he confirms.
2. How do I differentiate between real and fake Zardosi work?
A: "Zardozi can’t be faked! It’s so heavy in three-dimensional space that either it’s there or it’s not. The closest would be to add Nakshi embroidery, but there’s still a huge difference up close," he shares.
3. Can Zardosi work be customised?
A: "Yes, of course! In as many ways as you can imagine and then some more," says Dugal. You can customise the design motifs, the base of the fabric (choosing between silk, velvet, georgette, net, or even cotton), adding more elements in the zardosi embroidery like sequins, stones, beads or pearls, and go heavy or subtle in the level of embellishments.
4. How do I take care of Zardosi garments? How do you store Zardosi's outfits?
A: "Ideally, in not very humid conditions, in a coat/suit cover, with the dupatta or other outfit elements tucked away inside. It’s easy for zardosi to be caught up in fabric, so it’s almost as important to be careful in storing as in buying," Dugal shares.
5. How to clean zardosi work?
A: Always opt for dry cleaning in the case of zardozi work. Inform the cleaner about the embroidery so that they can handle it with utmost care. Avoid machine washing, ironing on zardozi work directly, and soaking the fabric.
6. Is Zardosi only for ethnic wear?
A: Absolutely not! Zardosi embroidery can be used in different outfits depending on your vision. It enhances the beauty of ethnic wear tenfold, but it can also be used in blazers, dresses, and western wear couture. Zardosi is also extensively used in designer accessories like bags, clutches, belts, footwear, and brooches, and many designer home decor brands offer zardosi embroidery in their luxury line, especially in products like cushion covers, wall arts, etc.
7. Expert tips on wearing Zardosi work right.
A: "It’s the star of the show—don’t overdress it, let it shine. It’s very tedious to make, so let it have its day in the sun. Anything and everything accessorises well; make sure to add complementary metallic tones and not opposing ones," suggests Dugal.
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3. How to Drape Your Lehenga Dupatta?
